June 29, 2008

Day on the Catamaran


We spent the day on a rented catamaran, floating between the islands, and enjoying the calm waters of the Caribbean. It was the most relaxing sailing experience that I've ever had. Staring at the open water and watching the dolphins swim by was unreal. I felt completely at peace.

We basked in the sun, and lounged around soaking up the salty scent of the sea and taking in the picturesque views of the islands surrounding us. Our captin docked in the middle of the water, and we took snorkels to the mangroves. While not quite as impressive as Hawaii, the ocean was teeming with life and vibrancy.

I felt like we could cruise forever on that boat, and that I'd never lose that feeling of contentment...

June 28, 2008

Bocas Del Toro

Another beautiful city in Panama...it just goes to show that Panama has a diversity of beautiful places to see.

Bocas Del Toro is a chain of little islands off the coast of Panama on the Caribbean side. It's only accessible by way of water taxi--a speed boat that jets across the water as you rip past postcard perfect scenery and little islands of greenery.

There are a lot of cute waterside restaurants, which to dine at in LA would cost a hefty sum, but in Panama everything is very reasonable. Dinner every night came with a perfect view and our eyes were treated to the occasional lightning storm. It was majestic to watch it light up the sky, and the clarity of the ocean water was incredible too.


We stayed on the main island, Isla Colon, which is a big party island and backpacker's haven. The bars alternate locations for ladies' night, so on any given night there is somewhere that girls can drink for free. There is a definite hostel-backpacker vibe to the busy island, and it may be a little more on the touristy side than I normally would like, but it was a blast.

Our first night we hopped to different happy hours and sampled the island's party life. Then we headed over to Aqua Lounge, host of ladies' night. Aqua Lounge is a bar located in the middle of the ocean. It's accessible only by water taxi. The dance floor is a deck. There are whimsical swings, and you're swinging right over the ocean! I felt like I was eight years old again playing on the swings. There is a big hole cut in the middle of the deck where the ocean water filters in like an inviting swimming pool. And the best part? A trampoline a few meters from the bar floating in the ocean!



It was just too tempting to resist. I thought to myself, "how many times in my life am I going to get the chance to be on a bar in the middle of the ocean, and get to go on a trampoline?!" I brought this point up to my traveling mates and convinced them all that we should go for it, and after a couple of drinks, we were all taken by the idea. We linked up our arms and jumped into the ocean, jeans and all. We swam to the trampoline and had a merry, jumping good time.

After the initial shock wore off, other people started to take our lead, and ten minutes later, half the bar was in the water. We'd like to think that we started the movement for that night. There always has to be someone to jump in the ocean first, but I'm sure at Aqua Lounge, it's a nightly ritual that gets repeated time and time again.

It was a crazy night, and while I regretted my clothing choice--tight, wet jeans are not much fun--it's definetely an experience I'll always remember...

June 25, 2008

Climbing in Boquete

Boquete has some awesome rock formations. And although climbing is a relatively new concept in Panama (most of the locals will think your nuts), it's a growing sport there-- thanks to the vision of a couple of local Panamanians who are paving the way and building their own climbing community.


Our two guides were also the pioneers of making outdoor climbing more accessible in a place where the sport hasn't begun to take off quite yet. They've secured permission from the government to put up bolts and routes in exchange for maintaining the area. The two guys are very passionate about climbing and very diligent about beautifying the area in the process. They're also incredibly skilled climbers who learned to climb from friends in Southern California, in J-Tree and Bishop. They purchased a lot of gear from Cali and used it to set up their opperation.

They have set multiple routes in three different areas: El Guenco, Mana, and El Paradiso. The different areas are set up for lead, top roping, trad, crack climbing, and sport. The level of difficulty starts at routes ranging from 5.7 to 5.10b in the first area, 5.11 to 5.12c in the second and third areas.

I found the routes to be doable and others a bit challenging.  I mostly stuck to the Guenco wall.  After about an hour and a half, I was pumped, and we decided to call it quits.  The light drizzle was making the rocks a bit slippery anyhow, and I stupidly forgot to douse myself in insect repellent that morning (you have to bathe with that stuff while in Panama) and therefore, was getting feasted on by mosquitoes.  Still glad we got to check out the climbing scene here.  


I think if I come back in a few years, I'll be amazed by the climbing scene here in Panama because it already looks like it could be the start of something special.

June 24, 2008

Whitewater Kayaking


It was the highlight of the trip, which is saying a lot because this trip has been full of so many great memories and adventure.

I don't think I will ever look at an ocean kayak the same way...

Coming off the grueling volcano hike, it was going to be another action packed day. Our guide, Jim, came to our cabina to pick us up. There was an instant rapport. He drove around looking for beers for lunch, but there wasn't any place that would sell them to us that early, so we picked up breakfast instead--some pastries at the market.

Both of the guides, Jim and Papito, were easy to talk to. We had never whitewater kayaked before, but they were excellent instructors and made us feel very comfortable with the water. The first thing we did was practice "going for a swim" or what to do after falling out of the boat because apparently it's inevitable for beginners.


The rapids were small, class 2 and 3, but it's that much more magnified when you're in a little kayak compared to a giant raft. I guess the thing that I loved the most was seeing how your brain responds to stressful situations. There's so much adrenaline, and you really get a chance to see how you react to making split second decisions under pressure. There's no one else to help you paddle or bail you out when you make a mistake (well the guides are there to help you when you go for a swim, but other than that, it's all you).  The rush from whitewater kayaking is unlike anything I've ever experienced (we whitewater rafted a National Geographic top 10, but even that paled in comparison).

Fia and I took turns going for a swim.  We logged two each and really felt bad for our hardworking guides, but then we started to get the hang of it. I was amazed at how quickly the mind can adapt to those types of situations. I could feel myself willing the panic away and honing in own my powers of concentration. "Don't hit the rocks; stay in the boat; don't die," became my mantra.  You feel your mind and body kick it into high gear as the rapids trigger your sense of danger.  The whole experience was intense! Getting through my first rapid gave me such a jolt of excitement. It'll be hard to match that kind of thrill with anything else.

We booked our trip through Boquete Outdoor Adventures. It's a small adventure outfit owned by two Americans, and that was apparent right away because I think it was the only time on the trip that we had to sign waivers. We loved our experience with them. The pricing was reasonable, and our guides were the best! We had a 1 to 1 ratio of guides because it was just the two of us. We heard they do really good custom trips and would love to put some kind of group trip together and come back someday.

June 23, 2008

Midnight Volcano Hike


8:30 pm: Go to the local market to stock up on water, granola bars, and a banana for the hike

10:30 pm: Get back from the Internet Cafe and try to catch some zzzzzzzz

11:15 pm: Roll out of bed and throw stuff we think we'll need in our packs. My normally non-cumbersome backpack/purse doesn't seem to hold enough

11:30 pm: The Jeep comes to get us, but we're still groggy from not enough sleep. We drive through town, then through the most bumpy impassable road to the base of Vocan Baru.

11:43 pm: and the hike begins...

It's so dark we can't see anything besides the few feet in front of us that the headlamps allow. The path is not what we expected at all. It's not a trail--and it's certainly not a foot path--more like a steep road full of boulders, loose rock and canyons.

We immediately see why we warned about this hike; it isn't for the casual hiker. We start to peel off extra layers of clothing and regret that we even brought jackets. It isn't cold out, and the exertion of the hike makes it seem hot.

After we've hit the first couple of trail markers, we're still in good spirits, and we naively think we're making good time. Two hours into the hike, we realize that we've been crawling. The group starts to stagger, and it becomes a mental uphill battle for each of us. We all wonder how this ever seemed like a good idea.

To keep our minds off how strenuous the hike is turning out to be, we play an international game of 20 questions. It works for a little while to trick our minds into forgetting how exhausted we actually are, but after awhile the game is abandoned because we're trying to conserve every last bit of energy to get to the top.


We finally reach the top in 5.8 hours. It's gorgeous and the views are incredible, but the cross that is sticking out from the middle of a steep jagged climb is the actual top--celebration too soon. We do a little climbing and scrambling to get up the unstable rock, and if we weren't so deliriously tired it might have registered how dangerous and unsteady that last part of the ascent really was.

The view at the top is amazing. Standing on top of the highest point in Panama feels more like being on top of the world. We were standing above the clouds, and watched the sun break through. The peak we were standing on strandled two oceans.


We couldn't enjoy the view for too long becuase it was freezing cold. We put on every single article of clothing we had brought with us, and it still wasn't enough. We said goodbye to the beautiful mountain, and tried to get down the volcano as quick as possible. The loose rock made it tricky. There was a lot of skidding, and by that point we were so tired--even amidst the beautiful scenery, (since it was no longer dark, it was like a completely different hike) all I could think about was a soft bed and a warm shower.  

June 21, 2008

The Surf House on the Pacific

As charming as the town of El Valle was, a day and a half was good enough. We bussed it over to the surf house on the Pacific side.

It was a relaxing day playing in the waves, lounging on the beach, and hanging out at the pool. I even did a little surfing, or tried, would be a better word...the waves were pretty intense, and I got tossed more times than I got up.

One of my favorite parts about traveling is getting to meet different people on the road. This trip was no exception. We met a lot of great people and made some really good friends. We ended up doing a house barbeque. Fia, Carine,
and I were part of the prep team, and we learned a lot under the direction of Alex, an engineer with a talent for cooking. I never knew you could sharpen knives with the underside of a mug.
Alex was traveling with his wife, Alex. Cute, right? They were newlyweds on their honeymoon, and just fun people. Hopefully we will get to catch up with them in California when they return from their travels.

Good food. Good company. We couldn't
ask for a better day.

El Valle


El Valle is a charming, litte mountainous town. It was nice to finally get out of the city and back to nature. We were so ready for the adventure part of the trip to begin.

There isn't much going on in the little town of El Valle. There was a short hike to a 70-foot waterfall, but Fia and I got sidetracked by the little handcrafts market on our way to the falls. We stopped when we saw the sweets, and before we knew what was happening, we found ourselves bargaining at the various stalls for trinkets and souvineers for people back home.

Our little detour ended up costing us a lot more time than we realized. The sun was beginning to fall, and we were told by our traveling mates who were already on their way back that the entrance was closed. Apparently, the city of El Valle has taken a very capitalist approach to their prized waterfall, and there is a gated booth that charges an entrance fee.

Not wanting to head back after we made it so far without a peek, we were told by the group that they had hopped the fence and snuck in. We decided to do the same.  It wasn't difficult to hop the little gate, but we were quite paranoid about getting caught.  Once on the other side there was a series of wooden bridges to cross and little stepping stones.  The entire scene, I imagine, must have been pretty impressive during daylight hours... but it was much creepier in the dark.  Our imaginations got the better of us, and after a quick peek and a couple of black photos, we ran out of there.

June 20, 2008

The Panama Canal

One of the great modern engineering marvels of the world...


We decided that you couldn't come to Panama without seeing the canal. Although we didn't realize how long it would take for the ships to get through the locks and squeeze through the little isthumus. The shortest time is roughly two and a half hours!

Watching the hydrolics was cool, but you can only watch a slow moving ship for so long, then it becomes about as fascinating as watching paint dry.


June 19, 2008

Visit to Embera Village


It took us over an hour by taxi to get out of the city. Outside the city center, the roads are not well maintained and the rules of the road play out more like a video game--driving to avoid cyclists, oncoming motorists, buses, and the occasional boulders in the middle of the road. It made for an interesting drive. Luckily, we had an awesome driver, Francisco. He was our very chatty unofficial guide, and we learned all about his family and Panamanian life while he navigated the roads like a pro.

The scenery changed quickly. It went from skyscrappers to humble dwellings in scattered villages. Besides the humidity, the other thing that is immediately noticeable about Panama is the overwhelming greenery. The ride may have been a little bumpy, but the views from the window more than made up for it.

The Embera Village was a cool experience. It felt like something straight out of the Discovery Channel. We learned a lot and got great insight into the indigenous culture and their melding of traditional and modern ways. I thought it was very ingenious and industrious of the tribe to open themselves up to tourism as a way of revenue and a way to preserve their culture and keep some of their traditions alive.

It was a very educational and rewarding experience and we felt honored to be given the chance to interact with the people, share in a meal, learn about their past and present, and dance with them. Even if it is an experience catered to tourists, there is still something very genuine about the people and their willingness to openly share their culture. Although a part of us wondered if they breathed a sigh of relief once all the tourists left, tore off their costumes, and transformed their village, much like the changing of a movie set...

As if the dancing, eating, and learning weren't enough for one day, we continued our adventureous canoe ride upriver to a little hiking spot that led to an amazing waterfall and swimming area.

June 17, 2008

Panama City


We fell in love with Panama City! The people, the food, and the architecture captivated us from the beginning. Casco Viejo is the old part of the city. It's a place brimming with character and charm, and Fia and I felt right at home with the locals. We immediately took to the food, the pace of life, and managed to navigate the tricky transportation system.

The first night we bunked in Luna's Castle, an artsy little hostel in the heart of Casco Viejo. No air conditioning, but for $10 a night and an incredible view, we really had nothing to complain about. What struck us the most was the beautiful, quirky artwork that surrounded the hostel. You can stay for free if you lend them your artistic talents, which is why the hostel is full of an eccletic mix of creative expression.


The next morning we hopped the a local bus, the d
iablo rojo, which are these outrageously painted school buses decked out in graffiti and loud colors that scream flashback to the 90s. (Think The Fresh Prince of Bel Air). For 25 cents, we chose a bus at random and rode it around the city just to see where it would go...


While wandering the city, we got caught in a torrential tropical storm (it is rainy season). We were completely illprepared trekking our way back through town in shorts, tank tops, and flip flops splashing through the puddles that had collected from the pouring rain. Within minutes we were drenched to the bone. We got quite a few strange looks from the locals, and honks from the cars passing by, offering to give us a ride out of the rain.

June 14, 2008

Thoughts on graduation

The sun comes up and goes away, so does graduation day...

FINALLY! College has been a defining experience where I've gotten the chance to learn, grow, and thrive. Even though it took me an extra year, I have no regrets. I'm glad I took the time to explore--it's been an enjoyable journey throughout where I've entertained the idea of becoming an anthropologist, a designer, a sociologist, a teacher, and have somehow ended up in marketing.

Life is a crazy journey and college has been a great jumping off point. I've met a lot of great people, camped under the open stars at Red Mountain for an archaeological dig, done multiple road trips with friends, happy hour hops with co-workers, a study abroard experience in China, completed a full marathon, skydived, white water rafted, indulged in new hobbies, backpacked through Europe, was the editor-in-chief of a deparment magazine, worked at a theme park, a coffehouse, and landed a great internship. It's definetely been an eventful five years, and I'm not sure if I'm ready to let them go.

I've straddled the working world and student life for so long, and I've had fun doing it. I think I'm going to miss the balancing act and the crazy chaos associated with trying to do it all. The 9 to 5 (and sometimes later) from here on out seems daunting. I'm going to need a diversion--something to break up the monotony...and I'm starting to wonder if my little weekend escapes will be enough to sustain my appetite and need for adventure...

Life is what you make of it, right? Hopefully, it only gets better from here.

June 3, 2008

Gear Review: Keen Newport H2

I got these a month ago for my little weekend excursions. The fit is great and they're comfortable and light weight, which makes them easy to pack. After three hikes and 20 + miles they've held up pretty well. Even wet, these shoes provide great traction. I loved the ease with which you can river cross and go from wet to dry without any problems.

The only negative? They aren't designed for longer hikes. My feet were feeling it after the 10 mile mark. The light weight construction means that there isn't as much cushioning as your standard pair of heavy hiking boots. The best use is for short day hikes with water. Also, if you do a rocky trail, those little annoying rocks will sometimes get stuck inside the shoe. Overall, I'm happy with my Keens.

June 1, 2008

The Slides

Wooohoooo!

So clearly I have a thing for waterfalls...This was one of those amazing hikes where I felt like I'd escaped even though home was a mere two hours away. I guess it was kind of a drive, especially with gas prices being the way they are...but the pictures say it all. I was blown away by the beautiful scenery. The hike itself wasn't strenous, but it was pretty hard to navigate. There are signs everywhere that say "trail not maintained" and they weren't kidding! It's as if the parks service forgot about this place. We veered off-course multiple times, and at one point we were just wandering, following the river upstream. The trail leading up to the switchbacks is rocky and there are multiple river crossings. But losing the trail makes for a good adventure.


The reward? An awesome waterfall that feeds into clear emerald green waters. The pool is deep and perfect for cliff diving. There are even ropes for you to climb and swing from like Tarzan. It's a great spot to spend a hot summer afternoon.

If you double back and climb around the falls, on the otherside, there is an even more amazing sight, natural water slides!

Beautiful rock formations worn smooth by the fast moving water. The only negative? There's a lot of senseless tagging and graffiti on the trails and even on the gorgeous rocks. People should really leave nature alone and go back to defacing buildings. At least that can be covered with a little paint.